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Here's how a chef and mixologist husband-and-wife team are aiming towards a "sustainable future"

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Monday, August 12, 2024

Southern food can be mean something immensely different from person to person. For chef-restauranteur Sammy Wiggins and his wife, mixologist Kassady Wiggins, their focus is pulled towards the coasts. The authors of a new cookbook "Salt & Shore: Recipes from the Coastal South" and owners of the restaurant Joyce in Los Angeles, the duo is passionate about highlighting the best that the coastal south has to offer, as well as prioritizing zero-waste cocktails and highlighting sustainability. As they told me, "We wanted to create a culinary narrative that respects the past and looks forward to a sustainable future." With far-reaching intentions as well as unique ingredient usage, dishes intended for communal and convivial enjoyment and great recipes for cooks who aren't especially well versed in the realm of fish, Monsour and Wiggins are excellent advocates not just for food and cooking at large, but also environmental rights, sustainability, fighting overfishing and the wonder of working with a spouse. You can purchase Salt & Shore: Recipes from the Coastal South here.  Salt & Shore: Recipes From The Coastal South by Sammy Monsour and Kassady Wiggins (Weldon Owen / Simon & Schuster) The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length. I love how this book embodies precisely how it's labeled: the perfect mix of "salt and shore," both entirely Southern yet totally coastal-based. Can you explain a bit about the development of the book?  The development of "Salt and Shore" was a deeply collaborative and immersive experience. We aimed to capture the essence of Southern coastal cuisine by blending our personal experiences, various regional histories and contemporary culinary techniques. We hope while flipping through the pages, readers get a sense of our shared love for the ocean and the bounty it provides.  How would you define the ethos of “Salt and Shore?”  The ethos of “Salt and Shore” is about honoring the rich culinary traditions and history of the Southern coast while embracing sustainability and innovation. It’s a celebration of the diverse ingredients from the shorelines, the vibrant communities and the time-honored practices of Southern hospitality. We wanted to create a culinary narrative that respects the past and looks forward to a sustainable future. Is "coastal southern" your general approach, from the cookbook to your restaurants to home cooking?  Yes, "coastal southern" is a central theme in our cookbook, restaurants and home cooking. It’s a cuisine that’s deeply rooted in the traditions of the South but is also heavily influenced by the coastal environment. This approach allows us to highlight fresh, locally sourced seafood and seasonal produce; creating dishes and drinks that are both comforting and contemporary. A central theme you’ll see throughout the cookbook is also recognizing the huge and ever-evolving impact other food cultures have had on “coastal southern” cuisine and (of course) in our very own home.  How do you think your backgrounds influenced your current food perspective, both personally and professionally? Our backgrounds have significantly shaped our food perspective. Growing up in the South, we were both influenced by the region's rich culinary heritage and the importance of community and hospitality. Sammy’s Lebanese roots inspire flavors and techniques in the kitchen, while Kassady’s African American heritage fuels her commitment to social justice and sustainability. Professionally, our experiences in various kitchen/restaurant settings and our commitment to sustainability have driven us to create dishes and drinks that are not only delicious but also mindful of their environmental impact. Sammy Monsour and Kassady Wiggins (Photo courtesy of Ziv Sade and Sammy Monsour) I am so interested by the section in the book about algae and microalgae in drinks. I also saw chlorella in the Pawleys Island Palmer. Can you elaborate a bit on that?  Incorporating algae and microalgae into drinks is part of our commitment to sustainability and innovation. Chlorella in the Pawleys Island Palmer, for example, adds a unique flavor and a boost of nutrients. In the Blue Bayou, blue spirulina adds a depth of flavor unattainable by any other means. These ingredients not only offer health benefits but also reflect our connection to the ocean and our desire to use diverse, sustainable ingredients in creative ways. "Fish Camp ''is so fun. I love the name of the chapters/categories and the convivial, social nature of those fish fries. Can you speak a bit to that? The "Fish Camp" section is inspired by the traditional fish fries and social gatherings that are a staple in Southern culture. It’s about bringing people together to enjoy simple, delicious food in a convivial atmosphere. The name and the concept are meant to evoke a sense of nostalgia and community, celebrating the joy of shared, easy-going meals and good company. I also enjoyed the "stock market" section, with such deeply flavorful, almost home-y dishes, from perloo to gumbo. I wonder if ostensibly more involved, storied dishes like that  are sometimes intimidating for cooks? What are some tips you can give for people looking to cook those dishes? While dishes like perloo and gumbo might seem intimidating, they are all about layering flavors and taking your time. Our tips for home cooks include starting with high-quality ingredients, following the steps carefully and not being afraid to make the recipe your own. These dishes are meant to be comforting and home-y, so don’t stress about perfection—enjoy the process and the results. We want these dishes to taste (and feel) good to you at every step, much more than we want them to be “perfect.”  What do you think are some of the best ways for the most fish-averse cooks to get into the realm of fish cookery? For those new to fish cookery, we recommend starting with some of the more iconic, approachable dishes from our "Hand Held" and "Fish Camp" chapters. These recipes are designed to be fun, social and relatively easy to prepare. Dishes like blackened fish tacos, our various fish “burgers,’ or our numerous styles of fish fry are great entry points. They offer familiar flavors and straightforward techniques that build confidence. Plus, they capture the convivial spirit of coastal Southern cuisine, making the cooking experience enjoyable and rewarding. How do you recommend reducing food waste for home cooks? Reducing food waste at home involves planning meals, using leftovers creatively and composting scraps. We also encourage home cooks to embrace the whole ingredient, such as using fish bones for stock or vegetable peels for broths. Being mindful of portions and storage can also help minimize waste. There are quite a few tips on this in the “Libations” chapter—as syrups and ice are an easy way to mitigate a lot of what we think of as food waste. You're both advocates for environmental rights and sustainability in the kitchens. Can you speak a bit to that?  Our advocacy for environmental rights and sustainability is a core part of our culinary philosophy. In our professional kitchens (and home kitchen), we have always prioritized sourcing sustainably, minimizing waste and educating our team and customers about the importance of protecting our natural resources. We believe that every small effort counts towards a larger impact on the environment. How can home cooks help mitigate environmental damages? Home cooks can mitigate environmental damage by supporting local farmers and fishers, choosing sustainable ingredients and trying to reduce waste. Simple actions like composting, using reusable bags and containers and being mindful of water and energy use in the kitchen can make a significant difference. Charleston Perloo (Photo courtesy of Ziv Sade and Sammy Monsour) Is there a standout recipe for the both of you in the book?  A standout recipe for us is the Charleston Perloo, which also graces the cover of the book. This dish is a quintessential example of Southern coastal cuisine, combining rice, seafood and a rich, flavorful broth. It’s a celebration of the Lowcountry's bounty and culinary traditions. The perloo embodies the heart and soul of "Salt and Shore," blending simplicity with depth and history. It’s a dish that’s both comforting and elegant, perfect for showcasing the vibrant flavors and communal spirit of Southern coastal cooking. The pecan salsa matcha with the grilled tilefish sounds stupendous! How did that component come together?  The pecan salsa macha is inspired by traditional Mexican salsa macha, which is known for its rich, nutty and spicy flavors. We wanted to bring a Southern twist to this classic by incorporating pecans, a staple in Southern cuisine. The combination of toasted nuts, dried chilies and aromatic spices creates a complex, robust sauce that perfectly complements the grilled tilefish. This dish exemplifies our approach of blending diverse culinary traditions to create something uniquely Southern and coastal, while paying homage to the vibrant flavors of Mexican cuisine. I love fish in all iterations, but do you think there's a certain cooking methodology that lets the favor of the fish shine most? Raw? Grilled? Fried?  Each cooking method brings out different qualities in each species or variety of seafood. Raw preparations like ceviche highlight the freshness and natural flavors, while grilling adds a smoky depth. Frying offers a crispy texture that many enjoy. The best method depends on the type of seafood and the desired flavor profile, but ultimately, the simplest methods often let the seafood shine the most. As with many a seafood cookbook, there are no desserts. Did you contemplate adding any or did you want to steer clear since there would (most likely) not be any actual fish in those dishes?  Instead of focusing on desserts, we dedicated an entire chapter to cocktails. We believe that a thoughtful libation sets the tone for the meal and it’s a Southern tradition to welcome guests with a cocktail. This approach aligns perfectly with Kassady’s specialty and her way of expressing creativity. By emphasizing pre-dinner drinks, we provide a unique and engaging start to the culinary experience. While many cookbooks end with dessert, we chose to highlight the importance of the welcome libation, ensuring that every meal begins with a touch of Southern hospitality and sets the tone for the rest of the meal. Can you speak a bit to the current state of overfishing?  Overfishing remains a significant global challenge, threatening marine ecosystems and the livelihoods of those who depend on them. However, it's important to recognize and celebrate the progress made in the United States. Thanks to the science-based regulatory framework provided by the Magnuson-Stevens Act, we've been able to recover our overfished stocks and are now global leaders in wild fisheries management. This act ensures that our fisheries are managed sustainably, balancing environmental, economic and social objectives. It’s a testament to what can be achieved with robust regulations and dedicated conservation efforts and it offers a hopeful model for addressing overfishing worldwide. Tell me a bit about your new LA restaurant, Joyce? The menu is amazing  Joyce is a celebration of elevated Southern coastal cuisine with a modern twist. The menu features a zero-landfill cocktail program, sustainably sourced seafood, locally grown produce and inventive dishes that honor tradition while pushing culinary boundaries. It’s a place where guests can enjoy the flavors of the coast in a welcoming, vibrant setting.   Want more great food writing and recipes? Subscribe to Salon Food's newsletter, The Bite. Could you explain what exactly a zero-landfill bar program is? Does it also offer non-alcoholic drinks?  A zero-landfill bar program means that we aim to produce no waste that ends up in landfills. This involves composting organic waste, recycling materials and using sustainable, reusable, or biodegradable products. We’ve developed creative ways to mitigate waste, finding secondary uses for produce that’s past its prime—whether bent, broken, bruised, blemished, or overly ripe. It also involves a lot of communication and cross-utilization with the kitchen. We try to mirror flavors on both sides of the menu. Take, for example, our Mother of Pearl Martini—we roast the top shells of oysters and make a vodka infusion with them and we make an in-house vermouth with past-its-prime white wine, ogo algae (that you can also find on our Ogo Ceaser salad) and lemon peels that have been expressed for another cocktail garnish.  Other ways in which we “close the loop” are through syrups, infusions, shrubs, tinctures and bitters. Additionally, we offer a range of non-alcoholic drinks crafted with the same care and creativity as our cocktails, ensuring that all guests have delicious, eco-friendly options. This program reflects our commitment to sustainability and innovation, making every aspect of our bar as environmentally friendly as possible. Could you both speak to the notion of working so closely with a spouse, both in terms of the book and the day-to-day in the restaurant?  Working closely with each other over the past eight years has been rewarding. It allows us to share our passion for food and sustainability, collaborate creatively and support one another. While it comes with its challenges, the key is communication, respect and finding a balance between our professional and personal lives. Sea Scallops (Photo courtesy of Ziv Sade and Sammy Monsour) What is a formative cooking memory?  Sammy here. One of my most formative cooking memories is growing up with my Taita, my Lebanese grandmother, who was an amazing cook. She would prepare elaborate feasts featuring freshly made pita bread, stews, hand pies, rice dishes and pastries, all from our homeland where she was born and raised. Helping her make hand pies and spending time with her in the kitchen are some of my earliest, fondest memories. My family celebrates her life and legacy through her treasured recipes, which I cook often at home. It's also Kassady's favorite cuisine for me to cook for her at home. This connection to my Lebanese heritage through cooking allows me to honor my family's traditions and care for my loved ones, keeping Taita's spirit alive in every dish. Both of our families talk about food before anything when getting together; everything is planned around food. Formative cooking memories for us involve helping our families prepare large, communal meals during holidays. These experiences instilled in us the importance of food in bringing people together and the joy of sharing a meal with loved ones. They also taught us the value of hard work, patience and the love that goes into cooking and ultimately nourishing one another. Why do you cook?  We cook because it’s our way of expressing creativity, nourishing loved ones, connecting with others and honoring our heritage. It’s a form of art and a means of storytelling that allows us to share our passion for food and sustainability with the world. Cooking brings us joy and fulfillment and it’s our way of making a positive impact. What are your top three favorite ingredients to work with?  Asking us to choose a favorite child? Broadly, our favorite ingredients to work with are unique spices, grass-fed butter, fresh seafood and seasonal produce. These elements allow us to create dishes that are vibrant, flavorful and reflective of the diverse culinary traditions we cherish. How do the two of you handle menu development, linking the bar program and the food menu so intrinsically?  When developing our menus, we start with the seasonal and sustainable ingredients available to us, ensuring that both the food and beverage components highlight the best of what each season has to offer. We brainstorm dishes and cocktails that complement these ingredients while creating a harmonious and cohesive dining experience. Linking the bar program with the food menu involves crafting flavor profiles that enhance and balance each other, ensuring that every bite and sip is part of a unified culinary journey. Our aspiration is to create food and beverages that are delicious, beautiful, crave-worthy and soul-satisfying. We believe that every element, from the welcome cocktail to the final dish, should contribute to an unforgettable dining experience. This holistic approach allows  us to express our creativity fully and ensures that our guests enjoy a seamless and delightful blend of flavors and aesthetics. Read more about this topic

The culinary couple discuss zero-landfill bar programs, sustainability and the wide world of fish cookery

Southern food can be mean something immensely different from person to person. For chef-restauranteur Sammy Wiggins and his wife, mixologist Kassady Wiggins, their focus is pulled towards the coasts.

The authors of a new cookbook "Salt & Shore: Recipes from the Coastal South" and owners of the restaurant Joyce in Los Angeles, the duo is passionate about highlighting the best that the coastal south has to offer, as well as prioritizing zero-waste cocktails and highlighting sustainability.

As they told me, "We wanted to create a culinary narrative that respects the past and looks forward to a sustainable future."

With far-reaching intentions as well as unique ingredient usage, dishes intended for communal and convivial enjoyment and great recipes for cooks who aren't especially well versed in the realm of fish, Monsour and Wiggins are excellent advocates not just for food and cooking at large, but also environmental rights, sustainability, fighting overfishing and the wonder of working with a spouse.

You can purchase Salt & Shore: Recipes from the Coastal South here

Salt & Shore: Recipes From The Coastal South by Sammy Monsour and Kassady WigginsSalt & Shore: Recipes From The Coastal South by Sammy Monsour and Kassady Wiggins (Weldon Owen / Simon & Schuster)

The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length.

I love how this book embodies precisely how it's labeled: the perfect mix of "salt and shore," both entirely Southern yet totally coastal-based. Can you explain a bit about the development of the book? 

The development of "Salt and Shore" was a deeply collaborative and immersive experience. We aimed to capture the essence of Southern coastal cuisine by blending our personal experiences, various regional histories and contemporary culinary techniques. We hope while flipping through the pages, readers get a sense of our shared love for the ocean and the bounty it provides. 

How would you define the ethos of “Salt and Shore?” 

The ethos of “Salt and Shore” is about honoring the rich culinary traditions and history of the Southern coast while embracing sustainability and innovation. It’s a celebration of the diverse ingredients from the shorelines, the vibrant communities and the time-honored practices of Southern hospitality. We wanted to create a culinary narrative that respects the past and looks forward to a sustainable future.

Is "coastal southern" your general approach, from the cookbook to your restaurants to home cooking? 

Yes, "coastal southern" is a central theme in our cookbook, restaurants and home cooking. It’s a cuisine that’s deeply rooted in the traditions of the South but is also heavily influenced by the coastal environment. This approach allows us to highlight fresh, locally sourced seafood and seasonal produce; creating dishes and drinks that are both comforting and contemporary. A central theme you’ll see throughout the cookbook is also recognizing the huge and ever-evolving impact other food cultures have had on “coastal southern” cuisine and (of course) in our very own home. 

How do you think your backgrounds influenced your current food perspective, both personally and professionally?

Our backgrounds have significantly shaped our food perspective. Growing up in the South, we were both influenced by the region's rich culinary heritage and the importance of community and hospitality. Sammy’s Lebanese roots inspire flavors and techniques in the kitchen, while Kassady’s African American heritage fuels her commitment to social justice and sustainability.

Professionally, our experiences in various kitchen/restaurant settings and our commitment to sustainability have driven us to create dishes and drinks that are not only delicious but also mindful of their environmental impact.

Sammy Monsour and Kassady WigginsSammy Monsour and Kassady Wiggins (Photo courtesy of Ziv Sade and Sammy Monsour)

I am so interested by the section in the book about algae and microalgae in drinks. I also saw chlorella in the Pawleys Island Palmer. Can you elaborate a bit on that? 

Incorporating algae and microalgae into drinks is part of our commitment to sustainability and innovation. Chlorella in the Pawleys Island Palmer, for example, adds a unique flavor and a boost of nutrients. In the Blue Bayou, blue spirulina adds a depth of flavor unattainable by any other means. These ingredients not only offer health benefits but also reflect our connection to the ocean and our desire to use diverse, sustainable ingredients in creative ways.

"Fish Camp ''is so fun. I love the name of the chapters/categories and the convivial, social nature of those fish fries. Can you speak a bit to that?

The "Fish Camp" section is inspired by the traditional fish fries and social gatherings that are a staple in Southern culture. It’s about bringing people together to enjoy simple, delicious food in a convivial atmosphere. The name and the concept are meant to evoke a sense of nostalgia and community, celebrating the joy of shared, easy-going meals and good company.

I also enjoyed the "stock market" section, with such deeply flavorful, almost home-y dishes, from perloo to gumbo. I wonder if ostensibly more involved, storied dishes like that  are sometimes intimidating for cooks? What are some tips you can give for people looking to cook those dishes?

While dishes like perloo and gumbo might seem intimidating, they are all about layering flavors and taking your time. Our tips for home cooks include starting with high-quality ingredients, following the steps carefully and not being afraid to make the recipe your own.

These dishes are meant to be comforting and home-y, so don’t stress about perfection—enjoy the process and the results. We want these dishes to taste (and feel) good to you at every step, much more than we want them to be “perfect.” 

What do you think are some of the best ways for the most fish-averse cooks to get into the realm of fish cookery?

For those new to fish cookery, we recommend starting with some of the more iconic, approachable dishes from our "Hand Held" and "Fish Camp" chapters. These recipes are designed to be fun, social and relatively easy to prepare. Dishes like blackened fish tacos, our various fish “burgers,’ or our numerous styles of fish fry are great entry points. They offer familiar flavors and straightforward techniques that build confidence.

Plus, they capture the convivial spirit of coastal Southern cuisine, making the cooking experience enjoyable and rewarding.

How do you recommend reducing food waste for home cooks?

Reducing food waste at home involves planning meals, using leftovers creatively and composting scraps. We also encourage home cooks to embrace the whole ingredient, such as using fish bones for stock or vegetable peels for broths. Being mindful of portions and storage can also help minimize waste. There are quite a few tips on this in the “Libations” chapter—as syrups and ice are an easy way to mitigate a lot of what we think of as food waste.

You're both advocates for environmental rights and sustainability in the kitchens. Can you speak a bit to that? 

Our advocacy for environmental rights and sustainability is a core part of our culinary philosophy. In our professional kitchens (and home kitchen), we have always prioritized sourcing sustainably, minimizing waste and educating our team and customers about the importance of protecting our natural resources. We believe that every small effort counts towards a larger impact on the environment.

How can home cooks help mitigate environmental damages?

Home cooks can mitigate environmental damage by supporting local farmers and fishers, choosing sustainable ingredients and trying to reduce waste. Simple actions like composting, using reusable bags and containers and being mindful of water and energy use in the kitchen can make a significant difference.

Charleston PerlooCharleston Perloo (Photo courtesy of Ziv Sade and Sammy Monsour)

Is there a standout recipe for the both of you in the book? 

A standout recipe for us is the Charleston Perloo, which also graces the cover of the book. This dish is a quintessential example of Southern coastal cuisine, combining rice, seafood and a rich, flavorful broth. It’s a celebration of the Lowcountry's bounty and culinary traditions. The perloo embodies the heart and soul of "Salt and Shore," blending simplicity with depth and history. It’s a dish that’s both comforting and elegant, perfect for showcasing the vibrant flavors and communal spirit of Southern coastal cooking.

The pecan salsa matcha with the grilled tilefish sounds stupendous! How did that component come together? 

The pecan salsa macha is inspired by traditional Mexican salsa macha, which is known for its rich, nutty and spicy flavors. We wanted to bring a Southern twist to this classic by incorporating pecans, a staple in Southern cuisine. The combination of toasted nuts, dried chilies and aromatic spices creates a complex, robust sauce that perfectly complements the grilled tilefish.

This dish exemplifies our approach of blending diverse culinary traditions to create something uniquely Southern and coastal, while paying homage to the vibrant flavors of Mexican cuisine.

I love fish in all iterations, but do you think there's a certain cooking methodology that lets the favor of the fish shine most? Raw? Grilled? Fried? 

Each cooking method brings out different qualities in each species or variety of seafood. Raw preparations like ceviche highlight the freshness and natural flavors, while grilling adds a smoky depth. Frying offers a crispy texture that many enjoy. The best method depends on the type of seafood and the desired flavor profile, but ultimately, the simplest methods often let the seafood shine the most.

As with many a seafood cookbook, there are no desserts. Did you contemplate adding any or did you want to steer clear since there would (most likely) not be any actual fish in those dishes? 

Instead of focusing on desserts, we dedicated an entire chapter to cocktails. We believe that a thoughtful libation sets the tone for the meal and it’s a Southern tradition to welcome guests with a cocktail. This approach aligns perfectly with Kassady’s specialty and her way of expressing creativity.

By emphasizing pre-dinner drinks, we provide a unique and engaging start to the culinary experience. While many cookbooks end with dessert, we chose to highlight the importance of the welcome libation, ensuring that every meal begins with a touch of Southern hospitality and sets the tone for the rest of the meal.

Can you speak a bit to the current state of overfishing? 

Overfishing remains a significant global challenge, threatening marine ecosystems and the livelihoods of those who depend on them. However, it's important to recognize and celebrate the progress made in the United States. Thanks to the science-based regulatory framework provided by the Magnuson-Stevens Act, we've been able to recover our overfished stocks and are now global leaders in wild fisheries management. This act ensures that our fisheries are managed sustainably, balancing environmental, economic and social objectives. It’s a testament to what can be achieved with robust regulations and dedicated conservation efforts and it offers a hopeful model for addressing overfishing worldwide.

Tell me a bit about your new LA restaurant, Joyce? The menu is amazing 

Joyce is a celebration of elevated Southern coastal cuisine with a modern twist. The menu features a zero-landfill cocktail program, sustainably sourced seafood, locally grown produce and inventive dishes that honor tradition while pushing culinary boundaries. It’s a place where guests can enjoy the flavors of the coast in a welcoming, vibrant setting.

 


Want more great food writing and recipes? Subscribe to Salon Food's newsletter, The Bite.


Could you explain what exactly a zero-landfill bar program is? Does it also offer non-alcoholic drinks? 

A zero-landfill bar program means that we aim to produce no waste that ends up in landfills. This involves composting organic waste, recycling materials and using sustainable, reusable, or biodegradable products. We’ve developed creative ways to mitigate waste, finding secondary uses for produce that’s past its prime—whether bent, broken, bruised, blemished, or overly ripe. It also involves a lot of communication and cross-utilization with the kitchen. We try to mirror flavors on both sides of the menu.

Take, for example, our Mother of Pearl Martini—we roast the top shells of oysters and make a vodka infusion with them and we make an in-house vermouth with past-its-prime white wine, ogo algae (that you can also find on our Ogo Ceaser salad) and lemon peels that have been expressed for another cocktail garnish.  Other ways in which we “close the loop” are through syrups, infusions, shrubs, tinctures and bitters.

Additionally, we offer a range of non-alcoholic drinks crafted with the same care and creativity as our cocktails, ensuring that all guests have delicious, eco-friendly options. This program reflects our commitment to sustainability and innovation, making every aspect of our bar as environmentally friendly as possible.

Could you both speak to the notion of working so closely with a spouse, both in terms of the book and the day-to-day in the restaurant? 

Working closely with each other over the past eight years has been rewarding. It allows us to share our passion for food and sustainability, collaborate creatively and support one another. While it comes with its challenges, the key is communication, respect and finding a balance between our professional and personal lives.

Sea ScallopsSea Scallops (Photo courtesy of Ziv Sade and Sammy Monsour)

What is a formative cooking memory? 

Sammy here. One of my most formative cooking memories is growing up with my Taita, my Lebanese grandmother, who was an amazing cook. She would prepare elaborate feasts featuring freshly made pita bread, stews, hand pies, rice dishes and pastries, all from our homeland where she was born and raised. Helping her make hand pies and spending time with her in the kitchen are some of my earliest, fondest memories. My family celebrates her life and legacy through her treasured recipes, which I cook often at home. It's also Kassady's favorite cuisine for me to cook for her at home. This connection to my Lebanese heritage through cooking allows me to honor my family's traditions and care for my loved ones, keeping Taita's spirit alive in every dish.

Both of our families talk about food before anything when getting together; everything is planned around food. Formative cooking memories for us involve helping our families prepare large, communal meals during holidays. These experiences instilled in us the importance of food in bringing people together and the joy of sharing a meal with loved ones. They also taught us the value of hard work, patience and the love that goes into cooking and ultimately nourishing one another.

Why do you cook? 

We cook because it’s our way of expressing creativity, nourishing loved ones, connecting with others and honoring our heritage. It’s a form of art and a means of storytelling that allows us to share our passion for food and sustainability with the world. Cooking brings us joy and fulfillment and it’s our way of making a positive impact.

What are your top three favorite ingredients to work with? 

Asking us to choose a favorite child? Broadly, our favorite ingredients to work with are unique spices, grass-fed butter, fresh seafood and seasonal produce. These elements allow us to create dishes that are vibrant, flavorful and reflective of the diverse culinary traditions we cherish.

How do the two of you handle menu development, linking the bar program and the food menu so intrinsically? 

When developing our menus, we start with the seasonal and sustainable ingredients available to us, ensuring that both the food and beverage components highlight the best of what each season has to offer. We brainstorm dishes and cocktails that complement these ingredients while creating a harmonious and cohesive dining experience. Linking the bar program with the food menu involves crafting flavor profiles that enhance and balance each other, ensuring that every bite and sip is part of a unified culinary journey.

Our aspiration is to create food and beverages that are delicious, beautiful, crave-worthy and soul-satisfying. We believe that every element, from the welcome cocktail to the final dish, should contribute to an unforgettable dining experience. This holistic approach allows  us to express our creativity fully and ensures that our guests enjoy a seamless and delightful blend of flavors and aesthetics.

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Environmentally harmful Christmas gifts to avoid

Our obsession with consumption and plastic is not sustainable.

It’s fun to indulge in the nostalgia of snowy Norman Rockwell Christmas scenes filled with wholesome candle-lit family joy. The happy faces in the famous paintings appear thankful and content with whatever gift they received—be it a wooden spinning top, a pair of shoes, or a bicycle. You can almost imagine a local carpenter or factory making the gifts a town or two over rather than a far-away plastic toy factory in China. Those days of sustainable, locally hand-carved furniture, wooden toys, quality clothing, homemade blankets, and quilts that could be passed down through generations seem mostly long gone. Instead, what lies beneath the warm and merry veil of today’s Christmases is an obsession with consumption that drives human and environmental tragedy. “Many people in the global north tend to think that it is their right and that it is normal to consume the amount that we consume today,” Vivian Frick, a sustainability researcher at the Institute for Ecological Economy Research in Germany, told Popular Science. “They often completely forget that the consumption level that we have depends on exploiting other countries, having cheap resources from other countries, and having cheap labor.”While burning fossil fuels for energy and transport contributes to 75% of global greenhouse gas emissions, reducing it requires systemic change at the international level to make a real, lasting difference. Although it doesn’t seem like it, given the lack of climate action at the COP29 climate conference in November, it’s far easier for 195 countries to agree on climate-friendly policy than to ask 8 billion people to carpool or stop eating cheeseburgers. That said, our personal choices can still make a difference. While some may be unable to stop driving or air-conditioning their homes–since we live in an industrialized society where fossil fuel consumption is a mostly fixed part of the current system — we can help by consuming less in our day-to-day lives. That can be as simple as being more mindful about what you gift friends and family for Christmas. Dirty SantaAlmost every Christmas gift affects the environment and humans in some way. Whether it’s a cheap single-use plastic product or metals mined using child or slave labor, it has likely caused a lot of suffering and pollution on its long manufacturing journey from the ground to your hands. For example, over 90% of children’s toys sold in the U.S. are made from plastics derived from crude oil—the same stuff that fossil fuel companies pump from the ground to keep your car running and economies ticking over. More than 80% of those toys are manufactured in China. After fossil fuel companies extract the crude oil from the ground, it travels thousands of miles via pipelines or oil tankers to a refinery. Once there, the oil is processed into materials called feedstocks and moved to petrochemical plants, where they are converted into plastic resins or pellets. Then they go to the factories to create almost everything in your home, wardrobe, and, honestly, life. Anything made in China has to be transported at least 7,200 miles across the Pacific Ocean. The effort is staggering. For example, parents report that children lose interest in new toys within hours. Most toys are forgotten within a month, and over 80% of plastic toys end up in landfills, according to a May 2022 study in the Journal of Sustainable Production and Consumption.The problem doesn’t stop there. About 70% of all clothing is made from crude oil-derived synthetics like polyester, nylon, and acrylic and manufactured in China, Vietnam, India, and other developing countries. This system is known as fast fashion. The clothing is made quickly and cheaply to keep up with the latest trends. It’s known to fall apart quickly.Around 11 million tons of clothing end up in U.S. landfills every year. The same applies to furniture and electronics. But this culture of unsustainable consumption didn’t start recently. Society’s transition from wanting very little to wanting everything began decades ago. Scientific advances during World War II led to our love-hate relationship with mass-produced plastic and our current throwaway culture. It began to take hold in the late 1940s, just as Americans entered an era free from war and economic depression. Families had more disposable income and time to watch the latest, humanity-altering invention: the television. Oh, and the baby boom. All combined, it created a new consumer market and an easy way to reach them. The U.S. toy industry’s sales skyrocketed from $84 million in 1940 to $900 million by 1953. Last year, toy sales hit $40 billion. Today, refined crude oil is used in many products: clothes, soaps, toothpaste, toilet seats, bedsheets, water pipes, food preservatives, and even aspirin. If you’re not sleeping in, wearing, sitting on, drinking, or eating a type of refined crude oil, you’re probably not reading this. Maybe you’re living in a cave. But it’s not just toys or fast fashion that make Christmas gifts unsustainable. Here are some of the most common and surprising gifts you should avoid.ElectronicsModern electronics, like smartphones and tablets, often require frequent upgrades, leading to significant e-waste. Producing these devices relies on mining rare earth minerals, which damages ecosystems, consumes massive amounts of energy, and harms local communities. Even when recycling programs exist, only a fraction of electronic components are recovered, increasing waste.Single-use beauty gift setsPre-packaged beauty sets are a popular holiday gift but often include non-recyclable plastic containers and unnecessary wrapping. Excessive packaging adds to landfill waste, and the single-use nature of products—like small lotions or disposable accessories—means they are quickly used and discarded. Opt for sustainable alternatives with minimal packaging.Subscription boxes with excess packagingWhile convenient, monthly subscription boxes generate significant waste. Each shipment typically includes single-use plastics, bubble wrap, or foam fillers, much of which cannot be recycled. The repetitive deliveries contribute to carbon emissions from shipping, and the short lifespan of box contents often adds to household clutter and waste.Candles with paraffin waxParaffin wax candles are made from petroleum byproducts, meaning they are unsustainable and release harmful toxins like benzene and toluene when burned. These emissions contribute to indoor air pollution. More sustainable alternatives, like soy or beeswax candles, burn cleaner, last longer, and have a lower environmental impact.Synthetic perfumes or fragrancesSynthetic perfumes rely heavily on petrochemicals derived from non-renewable resources like crude oil. The production process consumes high energy and generates chemical waste. Additionally, synthetic fragrance chemicals are often not biodegradable, contributing to long-term pollution when washed away or released into the environment.Mass-produced jewelryMass-produced jewelry frequently relies on unsustainable mining practices to source metals and stones. This process causes deforestation, soil erosion, and water contamination. Ethical concerns, such as poor working conditions and conflict materials, further complicate its impact. Choosing recycled metals or sustainably sourced alternatives reduces environmental harm.Chocolate from unsustainable sourcesUnsustainably sourced chocolate contributes to deforestation, as forests are cleared for cocoa plantations. Producing chocolate often involves unethical labor practices. Chocolate also uses unsustainable palm oil, harming habitats and wildlife. Opt for fair-trade or sustainably certified chocolate to minimize environmental and ethical harm.Bonus: these ain’t great either.Glitter-covered items – Microplastics that pollute waterways.Plastic-based beauty products – Microbeads also pollute our waters.Gadgets with non-recyclable batteries – Leads to e-waste.Pod coffee machines – Pods are hard to recycle effectively.Gas-powered tools – Emit greenhouse gases and harmful particulates.Gift cards to unsustainable chains – Supports factory farming and deforestation.Exotic pets – Harms wild ecosystems through poaching.Frequent flyer miles – Encourages carbon-intensive air travel.

Book Review: This Relationship Shaped Rachel Carson’s Environmental Ethos

The connection between queer love and the power to imagine a more sustainable future

December 17, 20244 min readBook Review: This Relationship Shaped Rachel Carson’s Environmental EthosThe connection between queer love and the power to imagine a more sustainable futureBy Brooke BorelNONFICTIONRachel Carson and the Power of Queer Loveby Lida Maxwell.Stanford University Press, 2025 ($25)On a summer night in the mid-1950s, two women lay side by side on Dogfish Head, a spit of land on Maine’s jagged coast where a river meets the ocean. They took in the dazzling stars, the smudged filaments of the Milky Way, the occasional flash of a meteor. One woman was Rachel Carson, who would become well known for her book Silent Spring and its galvanization of the modern environmental movement; the other, Dorothy Freeman, was Carson’s mar­­ried neighbor. The two had been drawn together from the moment they met in 1953 on Southport Island, Maine, and remained close until 1964, when Carson died of cancer. It was Freeman who scattered Carson’s ashes.On supporting science journalismIf you're enjoying this article, consider supporting our award-winning journalism by subscribing. By purchasing a subscription you are helping to ensure the future of impactful stories about the discoveries and ideas shaping our world today.The scene on Dogfish Head may sound romantic, and Lida Maxwell’s new book, Rachel Carson and the Power of Queer Love, argues that it indeed was. Maxwell, a professor of political science and of women, gender and sexuality studies at Boston University, explores the intimate bond between Carson and Freeman by drawing, in part, from a trove of personal letters. The book’s message is that the relationship holds a lesson for our modern climate crisis, especially for those of us willing to find meaning outside our culture’s dominant narratives.The correspondence is telling. Carson professes strong feelings after just a few letters (“Because I love you! Now I could go on and tell you some of the reasons why I do, but that would take quite a while, and I think the simple fact covers everything …”). The two call each other “darling” and “sweetheart.” During the stretches they spend physically apart, they express what can easily be read as queer yearning, as when Freeman writes: “How I would love to curl up beside you on a sofa in the study with a fire to gaze into and just talk on and on.”There is also reference to the hundreds of letters we’ll never read because the two women burned them, perhaps in that same fireplace. As Martha Freeman, Dorothy’s granddaughter, told Maxwell, “Rachel and Dorothy were initially cautious about the romantic tone and terminology of their correspondence.”Was Carson a lesbian? The answer has long been the source of speculation. It’s impossible to know; she’s not known to have publicly identified as such. To Maxwell, though, this question is beside the point: “Whether or not their love was ‘homosexual,’ to use the language of the time, it was certainly queer. It drew them out of conventional forms of marriage and family and allowed them to find happiness where their society told them they weren’t supposed to: in loving each other and the world of non­­human nature.”Queer love is a rejection of what Maxwell calls “the ideology of straight love,” or the pursuit of “the good life” through marriage, buying and decorating a house, having and raising children, and participating in the treadmill of consumer culture to keep it all running. Because Carson and Freeman’s love was queer, Maxwell argues, they had no template with which to explore it. Instead they created a new language, expressed through a shared love of nature: the song of the veery, the Maine tide pools, the woods between their houses. This avenue for connection and meaning making, Maxwell argues, is what made Carson’s Silent Spring possible—it changed her from a writer who captured the wonder of nature to one advocating to save it.How does this apply to the climate crisis? “As perhaps is obvious,” Maxwell writes, “the tight connection of the ideology of straight love with consumption is also bad for our climate because it ties our intimate happiness to unsustainable ways of living.” To truly achieve meaningful climate policy, she continues, we’ll need to expand our “visceral imaginary of what a good life could be.” The queer version embraces a “vibrant multispecies world” where we seek “desire and pleasure outside of the ideologies of capitalism and straight love.” These specific points, made through­out the book, are at times repetitive and can feel didactic.Some readers, particularly straight readers, may bristle at all this. After all, plenty of people who don’t identify as queer opt out of consumerism and fight climate change. Straight people can reject the hetero­normative story; queer people are not immune to it. But the point of the book isn’t that we should take individual action—it’s about broader structures and narratives. As a queer woman who spent a decade in a hetero­normative marriage, I know how seductive the call of that particular “good life” can be; I also know the liberation of building something new. Max well’s book holds lessons for all readers about ac­­knowledging, and then escaping, the structures that ensnare us.Carson and Freeman found the way through their decidedly queer, deeply romantic, long-­lasting love. Even when they were apart, they imagined themselves together. As Freeman writes during one of these spells: “You and I have been walking on the Head in the moonlight. Do you remember the night we lay there in that lovely light? I told you you looked like alabaster. You did. How happy we were then.”

New Zealand Inks 'Sustainable' Trade Deal With Switzerland, Costa Rica and Iceland

SYDNEY (Reuters) - New Zealand signed a trade deal on Saturday with Switzerland, Costa Rica and Iceland to remove tariffs on hundreds of...

SYDNEY (Reuters) - New Zealand signed a trade deal on Saturday with Switzerland, Costa Rica and Iceland to remove tariffs on hundreds of sustainable goods and services, in a move Wellington says will boost the country's export sector.The Agreement on Climate Change, Trade and Sustainability (ACCTS) was signed at a ceremony during the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) in Peru on Saturday after being struck in July, Trade and Agriculture Minister Todd McClay said in a statement."This agreement removes tariffs on key exports including 45 wood and wool products — two sectors that are vital to achieving our goal of doubling New Zealand's exports by value in 10 years," McClay said."It will also reduce costs for consumers, removing tariffs on hundreds of other products, including insulation materials, recycled paper, and energy-saving products such as LED lamps and rechargeable batteries."The deal prioritised New Zealand's "sustainable exports", he said, amid a roll back by the country's centre-right government of environmental reforms in a bid to boost a flailing economy. Exports make up nearly a quarter of New Zealand's economy.(Reporting by Sam McKeith in Sydney; Editing by Sandra Maler)Copyright 2024 Thomson Reuters.Photos You Should See - Sept. 2024

California inks sustainable aviation fuel deal with major airlines

California on Wednesday signed an agreement with the country's leading passenger and cargo airlines to accelerate the use of sustainable aviation fuels across the state. The California Air Resources Board (CARB) and Airlines for America (A4A) — an industry trade group representing almost a dozen airlines — pledged to increase the availability of sustainable aviation fuels statewide....

California on Wednesday signed an agreement with the country's leading passenger and cargo airlines to accelerate the use of sustainable aviation fuels across the state. The California Air Resources Board (CARB) and Airlines for America (A4A) — an industry trade group representing almost a dozen airlines — pledged to increase the availability of sustainable aviation fuels statewide. Sustainable aviation fuels, lower-carbon alternatives to petroleum-based jet fuels, are typically made from non-petroleum feedstocks, such as biomass or waste.  At a San Francisco International Airport ceremony on Wednesday, the partners committed to using 200 million gallons of such fuels by 2035 — an amount estimated to meet about 40 percent of travel demand within the state at that point, according to CARB. That quantity also represents a more than tenfold increase from current usage levels of these fuels, the agency added. "This is a major step forward in our work to cut pollution, protect our communities, and build a future of cleaner air and innovative climate solutions," Gov. Gavin Newsom (D) said in a statement. Among A4A member airlines are Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, Atlas Air Worldwide, Delta Air Lines, FedEx, Hawaiian Airlines, jetBlue Airways, Southwest Airlines, United Airlines and UPS, while Air Canada is an associate member. To achieve the 2035 goals, CARB and A4A said they plan to work together to identify, assess and prioritize necessary policies measures, such as incentivizing relevant investments and the streamlining permitting processes. A Sustainable Aviation Fuel Working Group, which will include government and industry stakeholders, will meet annually to both discuss progress and address barriers toward meeting these goals, the partners added. A public website will display updated information about the availability and use of conventional and sustainable fuels across California, while also providing details about state policies, according to the agreement. “We’ve put the tools in place to incentivize cleaner fuels and spur innovation, creating opportunities like this to radically change how Californians can travel cleaner," Newsom said. Kevin Welsh, chief sustainability officer for A4A, stressed the importance of this government-private sector partnership, which he described as "necessary to achieve ambitious climate goals." This effort will help support the "industry's efforts to achieve net-zero carbon emissions by 2050," he added, referring to a 2021 resolution passed by the International Air Transport Association. Like the U.S. airline industry, the federal government has also mounted a push for the integration of sustainable aviation fuel — offering tax credits for its use via the Inflation Reduction Act. Nonetheless, some experts maintain that sustainable aviation fuel is anything but sustainable, since plant-based fuel sourcing can require the diversion of valuable lands away from crop cultivation and thereby increase emissions. The World Resources Institute noted that 1.7 gallons of corn ethanol are required to make 1 gallon of sustainable aviation fuel — necessitating corn acreage expansion that could jeopardize forests and grasslands. The agreement signed on Wednesday, however, expressed a commitment to "ensuring the sustainability and environmental integrity of feedstocks," by prioritizing the use wastes and residues in these power sources. “This partnership with the nation’s leading airlines brings the aviation industry onboard to advance a clean air future," CARB Chair Liane Randolph said in a statement. The agreement, Randolph added, will accelerate the "development of sustainable fuel options and promote cleaner air travel within the state.”

California Announces Sustainable Fuels Partnership to Curb Emissions From Planes

California is partnering with a major airline trade group to increase the availability of sustainable aviation fuels in the state

SACRAMENTO, Calif. (AP) — California will partner with a trade group representing major U.S. airlines to increase the availability of sustainable aviation fuels, state officials said Wednesday.The California Air Resources Board announced a plan with Airlines for America — which represents Delta, JetBlue, United and other airlines — to increase the availability of sustainable aviation fuel in the state to 200 million gallons by 2035. That amount would meet about 40% of intrastate travel demand, the agency said. Davina Hurt, a board member and chair of the San Francisco Bay Area's Air Quality Management District, said the commitment would help the state combat climate change and improve air quality.“Together we are not just taking a step forward in cleaner fuels but creating a ripple effect of positive change that will resonate throughout the nine counties of the Bay Area and extend to the state of California and beyond,” Hurt said at a news conference at the San Francisco International Airport.California produces about 11 million gallons annually of sustainable aviation fuel, according to the board. The state plans to use sustainable aviation fuel produced in California and in other states to meet the new targets.The announcement comes after some airline workers and advocates said the state is not doing enough to address the health impacts of jet fuel emissions. Air Resources Board staff last year included jet fuel in proposed updates to the state's low carbon fuel standard, a program aimed at transitioning the state toward transportation fuels that emit fewer greenhouse gas emissions. But staff later removed jet fuel from proposed changes to the rule, which the board is set to vote on next week.President Joe Biden's administration has also set targets for curbing jet fuel emissions. Biden announced a goal in 2021 to reduce aviation emissions 20% by 2030 and replace all kerosene-based jet fuel with sustainable fuel by 2050. Planes contributed about 9% of planet-warming emissions from the transportation sector in the U.S. in 2022, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Emissions from cars and trucks account for the majority of greenhouse gas releases from transportation. California Gov. Gavin Newsom, a Democrat who often touts the state's status as a climate leader, said the new commitment will help the state and industry “tackle emissions head-on.”“This is a major step forward in our work to cut pollution, protect our communities, and build a future of cleaner air and innovative climate solutions,” he said in a statement.Austin is a corps member for the Associated Press/Report for America Statehouse News Initiative. Report for America is a nonprofit national service program that places journalists in local newsrooms to report on undercovered issues. Follow Austin on Twitter: @ sophieadannaCopyright 2024 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.Photos You Should See - Sept. 2024

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