Andrea Illy Takes Aim at Coffee’s Climate Crisis
UNITED NATIONS – Coffee production is having a moment of introspection, though it’s not for a lack of consumer enthusiasm for the go-to wake-me-up beverage.Courtesy of IllycaffèPrize contenders are displayed for the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award 2024 competition in New York City. The awards ceremony took place at the Peak restaurant and event space on Nov. 12.Coffee consumption continues to increase around the world, with some 2.25 billion cups going down the hatch globally each day. That’s fueling an industry with an estimated market value topping $200 billion. And yet in an era of climate change, several crises loom: Droughts in Brazil and Vietnam have threatened bean quantity and quality. Extreme weather in coffee-producing countries also can lead to soil erosion and critical financial losses for the more than 12 million coffee growers in the world, most of whom are small-scale farmers and many of whom are already in poverty.On top of that, there are the higher costs of financing coffee production in developing countries, coupled with the volatility of coffee prices.Farmers are “in a precarious position, especially as climate-related pressures worsen,” Andrea Illy, chairman of Italian coffee company Illycaffè – known for its “illy”-branded coffee products – and co-chair of the Regenerative Society Foundation, tells U.S. News.“As climate change accelerates, the future of coffee is under threat,” Illy says.A solution, Illy says, is regenerative agriculture – essentially, production practices that focus on environmental sustainability and resilience.“Regenerative agriculture sequestrates carbon from the air to enrich the soil microbiota, producing fertility and natural defenses, retaining water, so everything is in the equation, because you have biodiversity, you have reduced emission, reduced produced pollution, less land use and water retention,” says Illy, who’s also a chemist by training.In New York City this month, Illy brought together judges and coffee producers to give a country-focused award based on coffees grown in areas that contribute to illycaffè’s own blend. This year’s “Best of the Best” award was given to Matheus Lopes Sanglard for the Fazenda Serra do Boné coffee lot, grown in Brazil."For the second year in a row, a Brazilian company that adopts regenerative practices has given us the best coffee in the world,” Illy said in a statement about the award. “In the Fazenda Serra do Boné, the health of the soil, biodiversity, and water sources are preserved thanks to the use of organic fertilizers, biological control and the reuse of processing by-products.”The awards were only a portion of what was percolating among the coffee stakeholders gathered in New York, who also focused on regenerative agriculture, fostering a public-private partnership to help both farmers and the land they cultivate, and ultimately creating a more sustainable value chain for coffee.At United Nations headquarters, Illy hosted a panel entitled, "Global Coffee Alliance: Mobilizing a Public-Private Fund to Fight Climate Change," at which he and others including Maurizio Massari, the Italian ambassador to the U.N., and Raina Lang, senior director of sustainable coffee at Conservation International, discussed ways to advance sustainable coffee production.Members also called for the creation of a $10 billion public-private fund over the next decade to assist smallholder coffee farmers in tropical regions hit hard by climate change."As leaders in food and sustainability, we have a responsibility to champion models that can secure vital food systems like coffee," Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard Foundation and moderator of the event, said in a statement.But Illy also wants more. He is sentimental about the family business, and says he cried when he heard his father, Ernesto, discuss his commitment to being a “socially responsible” company. Illycaffè was founded in 1933 by Andrea’s grandfather, Francesco.“Paradoxically, coffee doesn't give a substantial contribution to climate change, but it suffers the consequence of climate change,” Illy says.Ultimately, Illy says he wants to bring coffee to a level of quality, testing and public interest akin to wine, which he says “has at least a millennia of history, whereas coffee has only had centuries.”The Best Cartoons on Climate ChangeSpecialty coffees, he says, are fueling that type of renaissance, turning coffee into a beverage that’s known not only for its caffeine-delivering function, but also its form. What’s clear is that Illy wants to work with coffee producers to bring the aromas, taste and origins of the beverage to a higher level of understanding around the world – including in China, a traditional tea-drinking nation.And he wants to do so responsibly. “Coffee used to be a commodity until a few decades ago – a functional beverage that we used to drink just for the sake of getting energy to work and live,” he says. “And now it turned … it became an experiential beverage.”
As climate change threatens the popular beverage, the Italian coffee magnate is seeking to blend sophistication with sustainability.
UNITED NATIONS – Coffee production is having a moment of introspection, though it’s not for a lack of consumer enthusiasm for the go-to wake-me-up beverage.
Courtesy of Illycaffè
Prize contenders are displayed for the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award 2024 competition in New York City. The awards ceremony took place at the Peak restaurant and event space on Nov. 12.
Coffee consumption continues to increase around the world, with some 2.25 billion cups going down the hatch globally each day. That’s fueling an industry with an estimated market value topping $200 billion.
And yet in an era of climate change, several crises loom: Droughts in Brazil and Vietnam have threatened bean quantity and quality. Extreme weather in coffee-producing countries also can lead to soil erosion and critical financial losses for the more than 12 million coffee growers in the world, most of whom are small-scale farmers and many of whom are already in poverty.
On top of that, there are the higher costs of financing coffee production in developing countries, coupled with the volatility of coffee prices.
Farmers are “in a precarious position, especially as climate-related pressures worsen,” Andrea Illy, chairman of Italian coffee company Illycaffè – known for its “illy”-branded coffee products – and co-chair of the Regenerative Society Foundation, tells U.S. News.
“As climate change accelerates, the future of coffee is under threat,” Illy says.
A solution, Illy says, is regenerative agriculture – essentially, production practices that focus on environmental sustainability and resilience.
“Regenerative agriculture sequestrates carbon from the air to enrich the soil microbiota, producing fertility and natural defenses, retaining water, so everything is in the equation, because you have biodiversity, you have reduced emission, reduced produced pollution, less land use and water retention,” says Illy, who’s also a chemist by training.
In New York City this month, Illy brought together judges and coffee producers to give a country-focused award based on coffees grown in areas that contribute to illycaffè’s own blend. This year’s “Best of the Best” award was given to Matheus Lopes Sanglard for the Fazenda Serra do Boné coffee lot, grown in Brazil.
"For the second year in a row, a Brazilian company that adopts regenerative practices has given us the best coffee in the world,” Illy said in a statement about the award. “In the Fazenda Serra do Boné, the health of the soil, biodiversity, and water sources are preserved thanks to the use of organic fertilizers, biological control and the reuse of processing by-products.”
The awards were only a portion of what was percolating among the coffee stakeholders gathered in New York, who also focused on regenerative agriculture, fostering a public-private partnership to help both farmers and the land they cultivate, and ultimately creating a more sustainable value chain for coffee.
At United Nations headquarters, Illy hosted a panel entitled, "Global Coffee Alliance: Mobilizing a Public-Private Fund to Fight Climate Change," at which he and others including Maurizio Massari, the Italian ambassador to the U.N., and Raina Lang, senior director of sustainable coffee at Conservation International, discussed ways to advance sustainable coffee production.
Members also called for the creation of a $10 billion public-private fund over the next decade to assist smallholder coffee farmers in tropical regions hit hard by climate change.
"As leaders in food and sustainability, we have a responsibility to champion models that can secure vital food systems like coffee," Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard Foundation and moderator of the event, said in a statement.
But Illy also wants more. He is sentimental about the family business, and says he cried when he heard his father, Ernesto, discuss his commitment to being a “socially responsible” company. Illycaffè was founded in 1933 by Andrea’s grandfather, Francesco.
“Paradoxically, coffee doesn't give a substantial contribution to climate change, but it suffers the consequence of climate change,” Illy says.
Ultimately, Illy says he wants to bring coffee to a level of quality, testing and public interest akin to wine, which he says “has at least a millennia of history, whereas coffee has only had centuries.”
The Best Cartoons on Climate Change
Specialty coffees, he says, are fueling that type of renaissance, turning coffee into a beverage that’s known not only for its caffeine-delivering function, but also its form. What’s clear is that Illy wants to work with coffee producers to bring the aromas, taste and origins of the beverage to a higher level of understanding around the world – including in China, a traditional tea-drinking nation.
And he wants to do so responsibly.
“Coffee used to be a commodity until a few decades ago – a functional beverage that we used to drink just for the sake of getting energy to work and live,” he says. “And now it turned … it became an experiential beverage.”